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only_to_downvote · 7 days

It's only a 35W TDP processor, so temps are fine. Idle ~34C, Prime95 ~60C. And those are some nice looking cases, unfortunately it doesn't look like they had the 5.25" bay I needed.

iamnull · 12 days

Further digging led me to:

Mobo/PSU

HDD

5.25 drive

That said , I still recommend the match drill approach. It is annoying to have to wait those extra few weeks to have your computer together once you get all the parts, but there's a lot less room for error.

only_to_downvote · 12 days

Good to know, I'll definitely have to throw them back into the consideration pot. Though I am starting to really get hooked on the idea of a huge wall of pixels...

only_to_downvote · 12 days

I did consider them, but assumed they wouldn't be worth the cost for me since I don't really play super-fast-paced games where every millisecond makes a difference. Are there reasons to use them beyond that?

iamnull · 12 days

Not sure if it will help much, but when I was designing my custom HTPC case I just used google sketchup and searched for parts, which actually had fairly accurate placement of holes and whatnot. Though when I was actually building the thing I had the hardware sitting next to me so I could match drill and measure everything to ensure a perfect fit.

Are you planning on sending drawings out to get fabricated and that's why you need very specific dimensions? Or will you have parts available when you're building that you could match drill with?

only_to_downvote · 12 days

That's a really good way to look at it, I hadn't considered it from that angle.

Edit: though what sort of video card setup would I need to run 7680x1440?

only_to_downvote · 12 days

Are they really that reliable? I feel like buying one you'll probably get lucky, but buying 3 and you're guaranteed to get one that lets you down.

mattseg · 21 days

Oh man, I thought to myself that I wasn't going to participate in this when I saw your first thread, since I already have a big backlog of stuff I want to make. Then I read this post and my mind started turning out ideas for a stool, and now I've come up with something I just have to try and make. So I guess I'm in the running, assuming I can actually make what I've come up with...

Plus, I need a stool for sitting at the lathe/scroll saw anyway.

Ginfly · 22 days

I have a really crappy Ryobi scroll saw and use Flying Dutchman blades with it that I buy here: http://www.mikesworkshop.com/blades.htm Given the quality of the saw, I'm extremely impressed with the results I get from these blades.

As for following the patterns better, I just turn the speed down on the saw whenever I seem to be unable to control my cuts, it forces me to move slower and watch more carefully.

NZXT_Retell · 28 days

Slightly off topic:

I like your choice of case, and it's currently my #2 choice for case that I'll use for my next build (behind the 650D), but the mild OCD in me has one major problem with it: the cover on the front isn't square. Is there any chance NZXT would ever make a replacement panel for it that doesn't have the cutout? I'd be willing to buy it separately if necessary. The same actually goes for the top of the case, but that doesn't bother me quite as much (it kinda flows toward the angled edge of the side window) and I think I could ~~get used to it~~ live with it.

The other reason the 650D is my top choice right now is the latches on the side panel rather than the thumb screws in the back. While not a total game changer, I really like the feature and would like to see the feature on NZXT cases. Any chance that would ever happen? Scratch that, I just noticed that the middle thumb screw is actually a leaver acts kinda like a latch. I'm guessing the other two thumb screws add rigidity to the case when installed, but are not necessary for holding the panel in place and could maybe be left off all together for the first couple of months while tweaking things.

Other than those, the switch810 is easily my first choice. Between the SD reader, the rubber feet for the PSU, the IO light (brilliant!), the fan hub, and the openable/closable top vent for noise control I really prefer the features the case has, it's just... too non-symmetric looking for my OCD-ish self to look at every day.

Oh, and awesome looking build. This is preddymuch exactly what I would build if I had the money to throw at it.

fleetwood21 · 1 month

I believe it has a single usb3 pass through cable from the front IO port.

LumpyDog · 1 month

I don't remember the exact phrase, but I was sitting around the lunch table at work talking with co-workers when another co-worker brought their new baby by to show off. As they were coming by (without me noticing them) I mentioned something to the order of babies being the veal of cannibalism.

fleetwood21 · 1 month

Looks like a Corsair 600T

only_to_downvote · 1 month

Must be the box dimensions. It's definitely the mini-ITX form factor. If you look up the same board on newegg without the included remote it has the correct size listed.

only_to_downvote · 1 month

Based on this it looks like it's 60x170x35mm. And it seems it even has an internal fan in it that "starts only at high load".

One bit of warning though, it looks like the piciPSU-120 that is part of the kit I linked doesn't come with the P4 connector a lot of mobos require. And it looks like it doesn't even have he extra plug the one I bought had, so you might need the molex adapter they have. Alternatively, it looks like their picoPSU-90 does come with the P4 connector integrated, and I think you could still pair it with the 102W brick that comes in the 120 package I linked earlier, you'd just have to buy them separately.

So, probably a bit more work than buying an ITX PSU, but it might end up saving you some space.

only_to_downvote · 1 month

Yup, didn't even realize it till /u/Introvert posted it above

only_to_downvote · 1 month

I'm not sure about passively cooling the A6-3500, you might want to do some research and see if it really is 65W TDP or if they're just quoting that to be safe. For reference the G620T I have is 35W TDP, and I'm not able to truly passively cool it. I did cut off the CPU fan, but the case fan is blowing down right on the heat sink. Without that airflow, temperatures steadily rise from 35C past 60C over a period of about 10mins while at idle (stopped it there and plugged the fan back in, didn't want to overheat anything by forgetting and leaving it sitting).

Maybe find a nice slim aftermarket cooler that fits your space requirements? A Scythe Shuriken maybe? Or you could always test and see if the case-fan-blowing-on-the-heatsink method works for you, and go to an aftermarked cooler if needed.

only_to_downvote · 1 month

The power supply (at least the DC-DC portion of it) actually fits right on top of the 24pin motherboard connector, and that's it. But it also had an external brick, kinda like a laptop. I've called out the components in this pic. You can see where I mounted the plug on the back on the case in this image (top left plug). So basically the brick converts wall power to 12V DC that the computer mainly runs on. Then the small board on top of the 24 pin connector (actually 20 pin on this build, other 4 pins aren't required, they just provide extra juice when necessary) does the power regulation and converts some of the power to the 7V and 5V currents also required.

I had also considered a small ITX PSU that I would mount inside the case, but they all had fans and I was trying to minimize noise. It would have been nice not to need the external brick though.

As for the pico-psu I bought working with your build, it's possible, but you'd need to add up the wattage and check, it might be close. The DC-DC portion is an 80W PSU, but the brick I have is only 60W (my build maxes out around 52W). They do have 100W kits of the pico-psu though, or you could always buy a separate AC-DC and DC-DC unit, they have lots of options on the site.

One warning I will give you is that if you are buying a pico-psu, make sure it comes with the P4 connector. I missed that my low-end one was missing it (even though it had the connector for it, it just didn't have he cable), and ended up having to order it later.

only_to_downvote · 1 month

That's how I did my corners. I just cut them with a 45deg chamfer bit on the router.

The scroll sawing wasn't too bad, but I have some really small blades (<1/16" on their largest dimension) that made it easy to follow the curves. A Jigsaw might be too big to get the detailed cuts in there. Thought you could always just cut a rectangular hole for the IO shield that comes with the mobo. I nearly did that, and planned on it as a backup if I screwed up the wooden cutouts.

only_to_downvote · 1 month

The cherry should darken up a bit with time, or so I've read. I might give it awhile to see if that happens.

only_to_downvote · 1 month

Nice detective work, thanks.

only_to_downvote · 1 month

You come here and make a witty comment about my username, and get downvoted to oblivion for it. Sorry about that.

only_to_downvote · 1 month

It is, my living room floor space was really limited.

only_to_downvote

TROPHY CASE

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